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Used car problems

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  • Used car problems

    Hi

    First post and after looking around I hope I've got the right section.

    I bought a car from a used car dealer and drove it home, the next morning found that the coolant level was dangerously low and found that there was a leak from the lower radiator hose area. I also found a few other issues such as overfilled oil level and a broken wing mirror housing. The oil issue I would not have found had it not been for the coolant problem and the mirror I did not see as it was hidden in the lower corner and only visible from the drivers seat.

    I immediately emailed the dealer about this and a few other minor issues but he insists I drive the car 80 miles around the M25 and M1 to his garage and stop as required along the way (the coolant is gone in about 3 miles) to refill the coolant level. I have pointed out that that is unacceptable as it is dangerous to stop and repair a car on the motorway...several times. Even if I don't take the motorways (adding so much more time to the journey and fuel costs) there is still the risk of the engine overheating and possible severe failure.

    The first reply was:
    The coolant was drained and replaced as part of the water pump change. I would have said that it was possible that there was an air lock but if you can see an obvious leak then we would need to look at that and repair it
    The oil and water issues are of concern but if you top up and monitor the coolant, then the car can be used and driven. We would recommend that we arrange for you to drop it back to us to lower the oil and fix the coolant leak.
    I wouldn't envisage the repair taking no more than a couple of days and we would be more than happy to supply you with a courtesy car during that period.

    My reply:The coolant goes too fast, the top up I did went within a few minutes of a journey of 3 miles, there is no way I can drive and stop to refill that often and then there is the cost of the fluid itself. I certainly am not going to do that for 75+ miles on the motorways to get to you. I also don't know if the leak is something that will worsen.
    I suggest getting a local garage to check the leak out and siphon out the excess oil and we agree a figure to cover that and these other snags.

    No response so chased with:
    1. Coolant leak is critical, it is not feasible to drive the car back to you and stopping several times on the motorway to refill is costly, impracticable, dangerous and could lead to engine failure. I am trying to limit using the car and have only done the school run about 8 times which is not even 3 miles, from a tank at max level the warning lights are on before I get to the school and the level is not even visible from the side it is so low. So far I have used almost 5 litres of fluid (before dilution).

    2. Over-filled engine oil and the problems that can cause to the cat (as the warning sticker states).

    (plus reference to the other issues)


    I see the options as, and in order of my preference as the least costly to both of us:

    A) Allow a garage local to me (you can appoint whomever you want) to investigate the leak and you approve them to make good, they could also adjust the oil level. I would accept a second-hand mirror/housing, whichever is cheaper, and attempt to fit myself in a gesture to limit your costs. The mileage issue is significant so should be addressed but points 5,6 and 7 I will accept as minor.

    B) You come and collect the car, leave a courtesy car, fix the issues and return to me.

    C) I exercise my right to reject the purchase, stop using it and allow you to collect it once the full refund has been processed.

    The response:


    The car trade industry is littered with fly by nights and bankruptcy. Our business model works well for us and has kept us in business where many fail. We therefore make decisions based on our model as this is the difference between liquidity are bankruptcy.
    Part of our model is that we cover our own warranty and complete our own repairs. This enables us to keep our costs down and be competitive with sales prices
    Our low prices do tend to attract customers from all locations but the large distances customers are prepared to travel for these prices can on occasions such as yours be problematic. When problems do occur we do our very best to resolve and repair things but as with all car dealers we cannot help with the logistics of returning the car.
    We understand that returning a car can sometimes be time consuming and difficult and therefor local repair is preferred by the buyer but the costs are massively skewed by labour charges which would not apply to us. We also need to see the car ourselves to assess our warrantable liabilities
    From reading your emails I sympathise with your issues and situation but we have to make business decisions which balance the consumer needs against a business model that supports buoyant trading and legislative compliance

    So now I need to reply and my thoughts are that his "business model" cannot take preference over the Sale of Goods Act, it is not fit for purpose, and was advertised as a "GREAT EXAMPLE, READY TO DRIVE AWAY" (their capitalisation not mine). I also feel like telling him he should only sell to local people and not advertise nationally.

    Have I been reasonable in my requests and options?

    I am sure that I have read somewhere that I should not be at a financial loss in the returning the car (2 days lost from work, fuel to cover <400 miles, £40 worth of coolant) would that be right?

    But most importantly the risk to myself of conducting motorway or roadside repairs (pretty sure the police would take a dim view) is not acceptable to me, and if the engine seized I have a fair idea that they would try to say it was caused by me!

    It is a fair guess that they made a poor connection in the lower rad hose after changing the water pump (refer to their first reply) and could easily be checked by any garage local to me, then they could re-assess the course of action.

    Any suggestions for my reply?

    Many thanks
    Tags: None

  • #2
    Re: Used car problems

    Are you using a sledgehammer to crack a nut?
    The car seems to have had a water pump change. This involves draining the cooling system and refilling it afterwards.
    The cooling system is composed of a pump, 2 radiators (one for the heater), a thermostat and some pipework.
    The pipes are held in place with Jubilee clips.
    The garage is being reasonable.
    Often, on refilling a cooling system, there can be an airlock. Once the car is taken on the motorway and the coolant gets circulating at speed, the air will escape and be displaced by coolant, so the overall coolant level drops.
    If there is a weep / leak from one of the hose joints, it's probably just that the Jubilee clip needs tightening slightly.
    Do you have access to a screwdriver and someone who might be able to use it for you?
    A heater air lock normally displaces over a pint of coolant, out of about 6 pints in the system, so the drop in level looks huge.
    As long as you're not seeing coolant streaming out and can only see a weep, the car should be fine to return.
    It would cost you about ten times the cost of a local garage or a friend nipping it up, if you have to drive back to the seller.

    With the other points you've found, it looks like caveat emptor. You bought the car, having inspected it. The broken mirror was visible. How high is the oil level?
    On a flat, level ground surface the oil should be between 2 marks on the dipstick, normally spaced 20mm apart. Where is the level in relation to these marks?

    I'm sorry I seem to be supporting the garage here, but I'm giving you an honest opinion.
    Is the truth of the matter that you've changed your mind and wish you hadn't bought the car?

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Used car problems

      Hi and thank you for the reply.

      "As long as you're not seeing coolant streaming out and can only see a weep, the car should be fine to return." That is the point, the expansion tank is empty within minutes of starting, it is not just a weep. I did say that I think it is probably a poor hose connection.

      Using the distance between the oil level min and max marks as a point of reference, the level is about 3 times that past the max point. So that could be more than a litre extra.

      It's the mirror housing, and in the bottom left hand so not easily noticed - in use we see the mirror not around it. If I hadn't found a large chunk of plastic in the door box I might not have started looking and only found it when washing the car and the long pointed sliver went through my hand.

      Changed my mind? No, love the car but just don't think I should be put at risk or at a financial loss in putting things right. Especially when I think the faults can be fixed at this end for less than £50. Do we have rights and should we not fight for them so the next consumer is treated better?

      So, what would happen if I agree to driving it back and the excess oil screws the dpf, turbo, cat or engine seizes from coolant loss?

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Used car problems

        The expansion tank normally holds around a pint. What car are we talking about, please?
        Can you see water escaping? If you're losing such volumes it would resemble somebody urinating. Sorry for the description.
        The other possibility is that the head gasket has failed and the water is going into the cylinders and out through the exhaust. That could explain the high oil level as you might have water in the oil. Not so likely as oil pressure is 100psi and water pressure 30psi so you normally get oil going into the coolant, not vice-versa.
        Take the oil filler cap off. Do you see emulsion, resembling mayonnaise?

        To answer your points about the legalities:
        1. If the car is newish and develops a fault within the first 6 months, you'd be entitled to sue to be restored to the position you were in before you bought it. A long and costly process through the county court. Hardly worth it if it's just a loose Jubilee clip.
        2. I'm a chartered engineer and my company designs engines for the motor industry. In theory, overfilling with oil can cause wet-sumping, dpf problems and poor running. Your car will be a diesel if it has a dpf so the cat is not at risk. Closed circuit catalytic converters are not fitted, you will only have a simple oxidation catalyst, not at risk of contamination.
        The turbo is not at risk. It needs all the oil it can get.
        Seizure is certain if you run the engine devoid of all coolant.
        3. The problem is akin to losing the ship for a ha'porth of tar. It's a simple fault if it's a leaking clip. More complex if it's a head gasket failure. Why don't you just get it fixed locally, ask the garage for the money you've spent and give them copies of your receipts? If they won't co-operate, you could then issue a small claim for your >£50 via www.moneyclaim.gov.uk
        I hope you're successful.

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Used car problems

          It's a Seat Leon 1.9tdi and it is not steady stream but a flow of drops.
          The head gasket was my first fear as I had one of these a couple of years back and coolant loss was the first symptom noticed. I have taken to popping a container under the drips to recycle it back in to save costs, the fluid is not contaminated at all. No emulsion, power and starting are strong.
          You state that the Cat is not at risk, so why are there manufacturer stickers on the frame warning that over-filling can damage the Cat? That is not a challenge to you, just curious.

          I have just been reading the guidance document for car dealers and the SOGA and have found the reference to "repairs must not cause significant inconvenience to the customer, and must bear any costs associated".

          I will send them an email repeating that it is not feasible or sensible to drive it to them and will get it checked and fixed here then submit an invoice as you suggest.

          Thanks for taking the time to help.

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Used car problems

            You're very welcome.
            This is a very good forum, with lots of helpful people.
            Funnily enough, the tdi was one of my designs. We do much work for Volkswagen Aktiengesellschaft.
            Approximately 60% of VAG cars sold in the UK are fitted with diesel engines. We apply stickers on the production lines to all of the vehicles, by Asea Brown Boveri robots. There is no differentiation between diesel or petrol engined vehicles, as far as the stickers go. It's always good practice to use exactly the right amount of oil as nobody wants a petrol closed-loop cat to be contaminated by excess oil, or to get a diesel wet-sumping.
            There would be a danger of your car burning the engine oil and becoming uncontrollable. It would rev to high engine speeds, regardless of you turning "the ignition" off.
            That won't be the case here, given that you say there's around 1 litre overfill. It's a pain to have to remove all the undertray to get at the oil sump plug to drain a litre out. Many garages have oil suckers that fit down the dipstick tube to remove the oil. Personally, I'd leave it alone.
            Good luck.

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Used car problems

              Update: Had the car inspected this morning, thought if it was only a hose I would suffer the few quid to sort it but it's not, it is the radiator itself that has a leak and advised not to use the car.

              Cynical me thinks how did they not notice that when they were doing the work and service, I can't run with it was a coincidence it broke the day I bought it.

              Spoke to CAB and have now sent recorded delivery letter.

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Used car problems

                Or there was excessive force used to reconnect the bottom hose and it damaged the radiator.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Used car problems

                  Well, postie just been and my recorded delivery letter to the dealer has been returned as "Refused"

                  I also sent him a copy by email and follow-up email as I had obtained a lower quote to replace the radiator. I now see it as significant that he has not replied to the first email with the SOGA letter attached but has to the follow-up where he offered to pay for the lower cost but only if I waived compensation to the other parts of my claim.

                  Or am I being too cynical?

                  The car has now not been used since Monday and I am having to borrow someone else's car so I can do my work, so am now inconveniencing another person.

                  Next steps?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Used car problems

                    I can understand how you feel.
                    I bought a Mini..noticed the tyres were just about Legal! Infact parts of them were BALD. Dealer agreed to pay for replacements and Brake Fluid Service. 5Days later Sunroof is broken cost to repair/replace over 2k. 4 days later drove to Supermarket came out with shopping . Car dead will not start. Had to join Green Flag wait 24hrs before I can call them out tomorrow to take it to a garage. ! Jeez what next!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Used car problems

                      With all of this I forgot that the steering is unexpectedly heavy, thought the tyres were uninflated but no, over-inflated. Hoping that's not the power steering on the way out.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Used car problems

                        No, I think you might find it has wider tyres and that's what is making the steering heavier.
                        You can adjust that, you know.
                        If you have an OBD2 scanner and call up the steering module, you can make it turn the front wheels by fingertip. It's just software driven.
                        I obviously can't see the leak, sitting here. Have you considered going to Halfords or similar and buying a small tin of Radweld or suchlike?
                        It would cost you about a fiver.
                        If they've changed the waterpump, located at the offside front of your engine, they'd need to disconnect the bottom hose. Either they overtightened it on replacement, cracking the bottom joint spigot on the rad, or they undertightened it, which you say they haven't.
                        I hope they changed the cambelt at the same time. Once all the casings are removed to replace the pump, it's a 2 minute job to replace the cambelt, an £18 item.
                        It looks like the garage are now unresponsive. You could issue a county court claim, but they could dissolve the business so you'd get a judgment but no money. It's your call, really.
                        Radweld is good stuff, by the way. In the olden days a driver would urinate into his radiator to seal a leak. Yes, really.
                        I don't advocate doing that now but your options are, in order of increasing cost:
                        1. Radweld
                        2. Braze up rad spigot or use plastic 2-pack glue if on resin part
                        3. Replace rad.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Used car problems

                          Thanks, I have a scanner so can try that, not that I know what I'm doing but I'll try.

                          They did change both, it was a condition of the sale that they did as they had no evidence as to when it had been done.

                          I'm going to have a look myself to see exactly where the problem is, the mechanic pointed past the hose junction to what looked like a rusted area. If it's a tin of sealant I'll be happy but more than that I'll chase for reimbursement

                          The dealer is not a limited company but an individual trading as.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: Used car problems

                            The radiator is aluminium set in polymer resin with thermoplastic coupling spigots.
                            No chance of rust. You only get that with steel.
                            If you know a good aluminium welder, he'd do the job very easily but it may be that the garage has cracked the joint for the bottom hose.
                            That can be welded with 2-pack epoxy.
                            I'd try Radweld.
                            Good luck.

                            Comment

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